Doris Brynner was a leading figure among the 20th century's glitterati, widely regarded as an architect of taste. In honour of her legacy in the world of fashion, beauty, and entertainment, Sotheby's Paris is hosting an exhibition at the end of January 2025, charting the journey of a woman who dedicated her life to the art of elegance and craft.
Timed to align with Paris Haute Couture Week, this showcase is a retrospective curated by her daughter, Victoria Brynner, offering an intimate glimpse into Doris' universe. The exhibition runs from January 23 to January 26, preceded by a two-part auction: an in-person event on January 27 and a digital sale the following day. The offerings span exquisite jewellery, couture garments, and artistic pieces, each item reflecting the sensibility of a woman who embodied considered refinement throughout her life.
This assemblage reveals the personal and creative facets of a tastemaker whose influence resonates with today's collectors and fashion visionaries.
Doris Chez Dior
Doris's formative years unfolded across continents, which undoubtedly influenced her distinct aesthetic. Born in 1931 in what was then Yugoslavia, she spent her childhood in Chile before relocating to France during the 1950s. Her professional journey began in modelling, leading to an initial position with Pierre Cardin in Paris, followed by a tenure at Valentino, where she took charge of client relations and empowered the brand’s growth with her elite network.
In 1997, she joined Christian Dior as head of the Maison & Gifts department, a position she held for more than twenty years. Her appointment ushered in a transformative period for the brand's decorative offering, driven by her impeccable taste and tireless dedication.
Doris brought an innovative whimsy to the giftware department at Avenue. She assembled an eclectic range, spanning dinnerware, photo frames, wicker baskets, candles, Limoges china, Murano vases, Theresienthal goblets and embroidered linens. Her selections created a world of elegant yet delightfully playful pieces, capable of theatrically elevating any domestic space. Every item radiated singularity, infusing the store with warmth. It no longer felt like a retail space but an intimate parlour where discerning clients and LVMH executives mingled.
In recognition of her influence on decorative arts, as well as her impact on couture home furnishings, Brynner received France's Order of Arts and Letters in 2012.
High-Society Personal Network
Throughout the twentieth century's cultural landscape, Doris Brynner cultivated lasting bonds with luminaries who defined the era's glamour and creative vitality. Her inner circle included Audrey Hepburn, Frank Sinatra, and Elizabeth Taylor, who frequented her gatherings and played a major role in her daily life. Sinatra once instructed Brynner in the art of martini preparation at his California desert estate. Taylor, who was also godmother to Doris’s daughter Victoria, was a constant companion throughout the family’s life. This bond was documented in the 2024 film Elizabeth Taylor: The Lost Tapes.
Her friendships extended just as effortlessly into the realm of fashion and design, counting Karl Lagerfeld, Oscar de la Renta, Alain Delon, and François Catroux among her companions. Victoria's personal collection contains photographs capturing intimate moments: her parents attending the Cleopatra film debut, her mother alongside Marie-Chantal of Greece during wedding preparations, leisurely gatherings on the Riviera with the Catroux household, and the Niarchos heirs assembled for meals.
These visual records exist alongside material remnants of that vanished world – Balenciaga invoices, gifts, and a volume bearing Jean Schlumberger's handwritten dedication. Now available through Sotheby's, these artefacts carry the imprint of a life lived well, at the heart of a remarkable period.
Collectibles Over The Ages
The auction encompasses over six decades of refined connoisseurship from Doris Brynner's world, featuring remarkable works by Bulgari and Boucheron, as well as ruby-and-diamond brooches once belonging to Audrey Hepburn and presents from Elizabeth Taylor. An extensive array of jewellery by Jean Schlumberger is also on offer, including blossom-motif diamond ear ornaments, a sculptural sea star pin from the 1960s, and an uncommon gold-and-diamond compact originating in the 1950s.
The sale places equal emphasis on haute couture. The cream-coloured evening gown designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga and immortalised by Inge Morath is the showstopper of the collection, alongside signature pieces by Christian Dior. Further highlights include a sketch by John Galliano, an illustration dedicated to Doris by Karl Lagerfeld, and two photographs by Andy Warhol, one of which shows her in the company of Audrey Hepburn. A candelabrum crafted by Claude Lalanne appears alongside contemporary pieces by Jean-Michel Othoniel and bronze sculptures from Peter Marino, demonstrating her exceptional study of materials, silhouettes, and personal artistic expression.
Final Note
The Hommage à Doris Brynner exhibition at Sotheby's Paris is one for the ages, offering visitors access not only to the highly guarded world of a cherished celebrity but also an opportunity to connect with an artist who redefined style, beauty, and craftsmanship.
It is also a revealing portal into the evolution of couture, high fashion, and the art of living. Every jewel, sketch, or decor contains a fragment of Doris Brynner's journey – traces of a woman who lived at the crossroads of art, fashion, and society. This exhibition offers a rare encounter with a life extraordinarily lived.
