Southwest London is a tapestry of neighbourhoods and areas that each hold a unique personality created from their history, attractions and the communities that continue to develop there. Clapham in the borough of Lambeth has been built on its primary virtue of transport connections to the heart of the city that have made it a serious consideration for families that would like an elite London lifestyle with a little more space to roam and opportunity to venture out of the capital with ease.
Clapham Old Town is a beautiful demonstration of Georgian and Victorian architecture in a traditional way, with Clapham North and the High Street offering more energy for entertainment and leisure. Clapham South, however, presents itself with a collection of mansion blocks set upon leafy avenues that have drawn business leaders here in particular for the last 40 years.
As you would expect, the whole area has become a modern hub of culinary excellence and impeccable hospitality to support this evolution. Our guide profiles a collection of the very best to inform any new residents or visitors on the perfect evening out for dinner.
Trinity
The vision that Adam Byatt had for Trinity when it opened back in 2006 was to create a world-class dining experience for people in Clapham without them having to leave the neighbourhood. This was not intended to become a London highlight, it was created for the community as a local jewel that would shine as an example around the capital of what is possible. It is fair to say that in the last 20 years, Trinity has achieved exactly that through its award of a Michelin star in 2016, maintained ever since, and a collection of 3 AA rosettes.
The realisation that Trinity is in fact two distinct spaces makes the whole concept even more impressive. The Main Dining Room downstairs is the picture of modern culinary refinement with an open kitchen and swathes of natural light to make the soft tones and meticulous décor breathe with energy and life. Here, the chefs emphasise British produce with classic European methods for signature dishes such as pig trotters on toast with fried duck egg. Upstairs at Trinity is a more casual affair with sharing plates, snacks and charcuterie like Comté croquettes, lamb belly skewers and tuna ceviche. This overall balance is a huge part of the charm for a restaurant that many say consistently ‘punches above its postcode’ in Clapham Old Town outside central London.
Crispin at Studio Voltaire
The Crispin Group was founded by Dominic Hamdy and Oliver Hiam to deliver modern restaurants that provide a consistent menu of high-quality food and drink without the pretension and fuss that can be associated with that. That philosophy has found a great home inside Studio Voltaire, a not-for-profit contemporary arts space on Nelson’s Row in Clapham that has become an integral part of the cultural element of the area. The designer Jermaine Gallacher was responsible for the bold, minimal and somewhat striking aesthetic that manages to create an intimate backdrop that allows the food to take centre stage.
As befits this historic area, the menus are built on seasonal British produce in a firmly ingredient-led way that allows for European and even global touches to add depth and a certain flair. Small plates of confit tomatoes with almond cream, tagliolini with nettle and egg yolk and grilled lamb neck with anchovy sauce are some stand out examples from the recent past. The group sommelier Alex Price is well known for his championing of unusual and hidden European biodynamic producers, so often the thrill of the surprise and wine pairing recommendations become an integral part of the experience. There is also a delightful day service of coffee and cakes that brings the ultra-trendy atmosphere of east London to the southwest of the city in an exciting way. Crispin at Studio Voltaire is proving to be an incredible all-rounder in more ways than one.
Sorella
Sorella feels like a love letter to the Amalfi coast, based on founder chef Robin Gill’s time there. The simple and seasonal attributes of sunshine-filled flavours burst out of this incredible place, with its Italian trattoria finesses transported to southwest London. Its exposed brick walls and wooden tables are equally as inviting as the relaxing atmosphere that encourages one to take their time and stay a while longer. And the food certainly makes that decision much easier with Southern Italian classics presented with an inimitable 21st-century London spin. Wonderful cicchetti, antipasti, and secondi menu options are well evident with aubergine parmigiana, seasonally themed arancini and the slow-cooked ossobuco being among the highlights. Of course, accompanying these with the obligatory Negroni, spritzes or amaro is always a great choice if the occasion calls for it.
The creativity of the cooking is aligned with a modern sustainability that reflects the personality of this eco-conscious community. Gill himself has trained under Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons and is now recognised for his approach to finding young culinary talent and nurturing them with this methodology. With examples such as Sorella, it definitely feels like the future of neighbourhood fine dining in southwest London is in the safest of hands.
Bistro Union
Adam Byatt is clearly invested in the gastronomical development of Clapham for all the right reasons. He created Bisto Union as a casual sibling to the Trinity offering in the area as an accessible place that one would happily eat at – two or three times a week – with a feeling of comfort that never compromises on the highest quality. The leafy surroundings of Abbeville Road feel like an appropriate setting for this idea, set back from the bustle of Clapham High Street for an altogether more relaxed energy. Reclaimed wood, chalkboard menus and an undeniable old-school bistro ambience make Bistro Union feel like a home away from home for its patrons, with families and young couples allowing this space to become an important anchor for the community.
The menu is packed with recognisable dishes that are British gastro staples executed with precision and polish. Steak and chips, fish pie and roast chicken in bread sauce are joined by seasonal specials such as venison in winter and asparagus dishes in spring, to keep things rotating and fresh. A monthly Sunday Supper Club is also a chance for the chefs to experiment and stretch their talents in a way that makes everybody involved feel valued and part of an inclusive yet elite gathering.
The rise of Clapham as a southwest London standout neighbourhood looks set to continue for a long time. Its development as a thriving community is bolstered by these restaurant picks and the many more that are appearing to make this place such an interesting foodie destination outside of the city centre. Becoming part of this scene as a new resident or visitor presents an opportunity to shape the direction and content of what the future holds, something that doesn’t happen all too often in such a globally recognised capital. Long may that continue in Clapham.
