There is an apocryphal element to how the neighbourhood where Regent’s Canal joins the Grand Union Canal came to be known as Little Venice. Many believe it was the poet Robert Browning who first coined it as a tribute to the calming waterways, wrought-iron balconies and beautiful townhouse architecture that appear here.
All of which presents the perfect environment for a café culture that is built on long, lazy mornings of coffee and chats at the water’s edge. Brunch feels very much a part of the rhythm of Little Venice and there is a collection of excellent places to choose from that have built their own identity within the overall atmosphere of this thriving West London waterway destination.
Here is a guide to the best of the bunch.
Beany Green
Beany Green is a fantastic example of how Little Venice fosters a kind of food and drink experience quite unlike anywhere in all of London. Right on the edge of the Regent’s Canal in Sheldon Square, this brunch landmark is a big part of the Australian Daisy Green Collection that has had such a positive and transformative impact on the famous mid-morning meal in the capital. Inside, there is a distinctive mix of freeform biophilic design with hanging greenery on the walls, combined with the rather more industrial concrete floors and exposed brick that houses it. Bright and airy, with statement art pieces looking down over the communal tables, one could be momentarily forgiven for thinking they were part of Sydney’s thriving café scene during a morning here.
The brunch menu itself has every standard covered, from Smashed Avocado and Shakshouka to their signature and more hearty option of The Bondi. For a sweeter treat, the Coconut French Toast is a bright, tropical take on a classic here too. Beany Green is a cheerful and energy-filled establishment that represents a thrilling way to start any day.
Darcie & May Green
As part of the Daisy Green family, Darcie & May Green is responsible for perhaps the most eye-catching way to enjoy brunch in this area. The pair are twin floating restaurant barges moored on the Grand Union Canal at Sheldon Square at the point where Little Venice meets Paddington Basin. The striking pop-art patterns that adorn them were created by none other than the legendary designer Peter Blake, famous for creating perhaps the most recognisable album cover of all time, Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band by The Beatles. Every porthole, skylight and deck door bathes the interior with natural light and in the warmer months, a roof deck even becomes a little sun trap for morning coffee on the water.
The brunch menu delivers all of the tastes and flavours of the day starters from Sydney. Interestingly however, it seems that smoothies such as Green Detox of spinach, celery and apple and the Red Zinger of beetroot, carrot and ginger are a bigger hit on the barges. Ordering a Long Black on either of these terrific vessels is certain to provide a Good Morning, Good Morning that the Fab Four would be proud of.
Laville
It seems natural that Little Venice should have a restaurant and café option that buzzes with Italian influence. This London location that takes its cues from those tiny islands and bridges in the Adriatic also has a fantastic food spot for morning meals that does exactly the same. Laville sits above the water where Edgware Road meets Little Venice, straddling the canal like a small but perfectly formed Colossus, with an elegant and engaging atmosphere for every guest. It makes the most of that indescribable feeling when one is by the water and the pace of life begins to slow down, watching the world go by in a stolen moment of calm and indulgence.
A glass-fronted dining room with pale timber surrounds gives a wonderful soft hue at Lavelle and it appears that every seat at every table is afforded a front row view of the passing traffic on the water and on foot. The Omelette Toscana with Tuscan sausage and mushroom may just be the stomach-filling catalyst that has you ordering one more cappuccino to stay a while longer at the edge of this stirring panorama.
The Waterway
Although much of the brunch culture in London is built on a relaxed and informal foundation, there is always room for a little more refinement and elegance within the brief for mid-morning meals. The Waterway on Formosa Street in Little Venice demonstrates how well this can be achieved, particularly when making the most of the huge south-facing terrace that surveys the Grand Union Canal in some style. Everything here is polished while remaining inviting with an almost a ski-chalet atmosphere of comfort everywhere one looks.
A weekend brunch at The Waterway is perhaps a more elevated affair than many of the options in Little Venice, with a lean towards a modern European brasserie menu on show. Eggs Royale and their fabulous Buttermilk Pancakes are traditional brunch dishes done deliciously well and with a regularly changing pastry menu, there is always the choice of a lighter bite alongside the morning coffee too. Of all the places in Little Venice, The Waterway may just be the one to tempt late-morning and early-afternoon diners into a drop of fizz, with Bellinis and Rossini’s guaranteed to make the rest of the day go with a pop.
Waking up to the sights and sounds of Little Venice is one of London’s true hidden gem experiences. It has a quality unique to itself that can feel timeless and often placeless in the most extraordinary manner. For those of us who like to indulge in a spot of people watching as the city unfolds beyond, the traffic of the canal here makes it all the more attractive. With excellent morning meals and drinks available too, Little Venice really does have everything required for a brilliant brunch.
